Thursday, April 30, 2009

Thailand Elephants

Paper #4: Elephants of Thailand: Myth, Art, and Reality by Rita Ringis

Elephants have been revered in Thailand for many centuries. The beautifully illustrated book Elephants of Thailand by Rita Ringis presents Thai attitudes toward the elephant and explores the elephant’s role in present-day Thai life.

As the emblem of the Thailand nation, Thai elephants are a symbol of power and peace and are known for their strength and importance in battle. On many occasions in the past, kings mounted these sturdy beasts to defend their nation in battles against the Burmese. In present day, elephants are still useful for their immense strength. From four years of age, they are trained to execute exacting physical labor and quickly learn to obey the words of command. Elephant trainers familiarize the novice elephants with their mahout, or driver, and teach elephants the basics of labor – such as mounting and dismounting, kneeling, rolling, pushing, and carrying – while restraining them in a wooden ‘crush,’ which is made of chained logs. By age ten, elephants can lift seven hundred kilograms and haul two tons of wood.

As a social symbol, elephants are well known for their intelligence, memory and pleasant nature. A Thai legend has it that a marriage is like an elephant-- the husband is represented by the front legs, which are the sources of direction, and the wife is represented by the back legs, the powerhouse of the family. This metaphor translates into the Thai view on male and female roles in society; the woman provides the cohesion, stability, and driving force in a traditional Thai family.

Though most of the two thousand six hundred remaining Thai elephants are found in various elephant work camps in the forests and mountains, some of these elephants also play a large role in cultural aspects of society. Some elephants entertain thousands of people each year through dancing, playing music, and painting. Elephants are trained to perform dance routines to various genres of music such as rock, jazz and folk. Specially trained elephants can sway and prance to the rhythm, swing their trunks, keep the beat, and sway their heads back and forth to the rhythm. When the music changes, their steps adjust to the shift in music (i.e. from a fast tempo to a slow, melancholy waltz). Other talented elephants can hold a paintbrush and brush precise strokes to create paint masterpieces (see link*).

Elephants are a vital part of the Thailand way of life. They are not only a symbol of royal power, but they also embody the essence of Thai culture. As loved animals, they come to represent the cherished values of hospitality, work ethic, and talent in the arts in Thailand. Their widespread influence in the lives of the Thai people, whether they provide physical labor or spiritual guidance, is what makes them the most widely revered figure in Thailand.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=He7Ge7Sogrk

Thursday, April 16, 2009

The Bangkok Post: Riveting Frontier




Sangkhla Buri, a cosy district in Kanchanaburi province, never fails to mesmerise visitors. Bordering Burma, its town area is a colourful mix of ethnic cultures - Thai, Mon, Karen and Burmese.


The earliest settlers in Sangkhla Buri are believed to be Mons. Making my second trip there in close to a decade, I was eager to observe the changes it had undergone in that time. Back then it offered very little in terms of accommodation to the few tourists who took the trouble to venture to the sleepy little town traversing winding roads up mountain slopes. Tourism was still in its infancy but Sangkhla Buri's rich ethnic diversity, where each group held fast to its tradition and culture, made it an attractive proposition even then, inviting travellers to come and explore the district on their own.

This time, the improved state of roads and general infrastructure leading to the town area meant that tourism has since made great strides but without sacrificing its rustic appeal. Numerous types of tourist accommodations have sprung up throughout town. Locals have become business savvy, with rows of souvenir shops lining main tourist spots such as the landmark 850-metre-long wooden bridge, also called Saphan Mon, the link for villagers to Sangkhla Buri town. Close by, clusters of guesthouses built as floating rafts proved an eyesore.

The wooden bridge provides a stunning view of Khao Laem reservoir. A student doubling as tour guide said during rainy season the level of water flowing under the bridge rises, sometimes almost touching the horizontal beams, but at other times of the year most of the bridge is in view. Given its poor state, motorcycles are not allowed on the bridge, although you can ride bicycles.

Tourism's ugly side is beginning to surface in the town area, but away from it you can still spot communities that welcome visitors with a genuine smile. One such village is Fang Mon that can be reached by boat or a walk across the wooden bridge.


One of the most photographed landmarks in Sangkhla Buri, this wooden bridge is a place to catch the sunrise, the surrounding landscape and laid back lifestyle of the locals. However, the cheap wooden guesthouses under the bridge were an eye sore to what once was a picture perfect setting.

Sangkhla Buri's other landmark is Wat Wang Wiwekaram and its highly revered abbot Luang Pho Uttama. The temple's architecture is a mix of Thai, Indian and Mon influence. Sometimes it is also called Wat Mon because most of the monks and villagers in the area are of Mon origin. It has a striking white marble Buddha image built in Mon style and murals depicting various stages of Buddha's life. The top of its stupa contains Buddha's relics from Sri Lanka.

The former Wang Wiwekaram temple, also known as Muang Badan, is another attraction. Submerged as a result of building of the Vajiralongkorn Dam in 1979, it is only on view during the dry season when water level in the reservoir, spawned by the dam's building, has receded to a sufficient level. Visitors can take boats from the town area to the temple.

Last but not least, is the Three Pagodas Pass. The miniature pagodas are reminders of the route favoured by Burmese soldiers invading Thailand during the Ayutthaya period (1350-1767). It is also the site of a border market selling everything from wooden handicrafts to herbal balm from Burma.

URL: http://www.bangkokpost.com/travel/travelnews/15106/riveting-frontier

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